Track Data – 3/30/2010

Track Data – 3/29/2010

Track Data – 3/27/2010

On to Georgetown

wpid-DSC06546.JPG-2010-03-26-18-531.jpgFrom Bitter Guana our goal was to find some weather that would allow us to sail on to Georgetown. We lifted the anchor and left the iguanas to themselves. Both boats, ours and Taua needed fuel and we needed water as well so we stopped at Safe Harbor Marine in Cave Cay.

Safe Harbor Marine is aptly named as it is a small harbor nearly completely surrounded by high walled island. It’s almost like boating into an extinct volcano. The dock hand (the owners son) was pleasant and informative. His family purchased the island and moved to it 16 years ago and have been working on creating a resort by dredging and building a hotel for most of that time. I would have liked to meet his parents and find out more of their story. It seems an interesting thing to purchase an island and live in virtual isolation for such a long time.

wpid-DSC06593.JPG-2010-03-26-18-531.jpgPrices were high there but Safe Harbor Marine is one of only two marinas that offers dock side fuel pump until you get to Long Island so we paid what we had to. The other marina is in Farmers Cay and we can’t quite wedge ourselves in there since they don’t have enough water for a 5.5 draft. After that stop we anchored for the night at Musha Cay which is owned by David Copperfield (the magician) as is the island next to it.

 

There is absolutely no going ashore allowed but from the boat it looks like a well-run resort rather than someone’s personal home. Apparently he does rent out the entire island for a mere $325,000 per week. Just in case any of you out there are interested I have contact info if you need it. No? Me either, I probably can’t even afford the 1 hour tour at that rate.

wpid-IMG_0988-2010-03-26-18-531.jpgIt blew like the dickens that night but fortunately the wave action was relatively flat in the anchorage in spite of the minimal amount of protection. As a result of the large shallow area there wasn’t much for fetch.

Next morning we went out Musha Cut and headed for Georgetown. Taua put up a sail right away but the wind was so minimal that even Boyd wasn’t tempted to put any sails out. Our wind speed indicator didn’t even make it to a full knot until after lunch. By the time we got to Georgetown it was almost 3.5 knots but still not enough to do anything with. We entered and anchored in Elizabeth Harbour.

It’s a wonderful, large area and there are several anchorages with good holding. If the winds are westerly, all the boats migrate to Kidd Cove and if it’s an easterly, they come back again to Volleyball Beach or Hamburger Beach.

 

Track Data – 3/26/2010

Thunderball Cave

No photos with this one I’m so sorry to say but I just have to share the experiance anyway. We spent the morning at Thunderball Cave. It’s of the fame of the James Bond movie with the same name and was well worth the time and energy to see.

Thunderball cave, when approached, is less impressive than expected, at least less impressive than I’d expected. It is essentially just a big rock in the water. Here there are hundreds of those so not such a big deal. When you get close enough you’ll see that there are a couple of non-descript mooring buoys near the rock and once you get close enough to tie up to one of those you should be able to make out the entrance to the cave. Still it’s just a low dark hole just a foot or so above the surface of the water. Not enough to create adequate anticipation of what is to come.

Thunderball cave’s entrance is low and nondescript but what lies inside is amazing. Nearly the entire rock is hollow with a large opening in the top of the rock, which generously allows sunlight to pour into the cave. Likewise the entire lower portion of the rock, the part in the water is hollowed out as well.

Therefore once you duck and enter the small opening in the rock you are immediately treated to an underwater bonanza of fish and other sea life. Conditions are such that you are instantly swimming inside the most incredible fish tank you’ve ever seen. Fish of all kinds, colors and shapes and sizes abound.

The fish here are used to being fed and they are not the slightest bit afraid. The fish come right up to you and wait to see if you have anything. We brought a bag of frozen corn and a can of cheese whiz. It’s amazing how much fun you can have with just this amount of food. We had a fantastic time feeding the fish and swimming through the cave. Within and hour the current in the cave got too strong to swim through the cave and we had to leave but I’m convinced I could do that every morning and not get bored.

Bitter Guana Cay

wpid-wpid-IMG_0892.JPG-2010-03-24-18-50-2010-03-24-18-501.jpgToday we stopped at the most stunning island. The cliffs of sand stone seem to tower above the crystal blue water, at least by Bahamian standards. This is a change from the average scenery not because of the water but rather the height of the land.

Here the land is low and what trees there are struggle against poor soil condition, low rainfall and the intermittent hurricanes. Often islands have a profile of just 10s of feet above sea level including the tree line so this island was a lovely change of venue for us.

Our trip from Piggy Beach to Bitter Guana was short and uneventful. In fact before we left we went snorkeling and we still had the anchor down and the dinghy in before 3pm at Bitter Gauna.

wpid-wpid-IMG_0915.JPG-2010-03-24-18-50-2010-03-24-18-501.jpgWe were eager to see the 3 ft iguanas that reside on Bitter Guana and I’d even saved some additional food scraps. The iguana’s, we’d been warned, were not as friendly as the pigs (imagine that) and one boater had even told us that an iguana had bitten his son so we were somewhat cautious about our approach.

The iguanas were so big and plentiful that we could see them moving around the beach from the anchorage before we even got into the dinghy. Unlike the pigs there is no legal thinning of the iguanas so with no natural predators they rule the island.

When we beached the dinghy and were approached by the many iguanas it was a bit like stepping back into a forgotten time and place. I know that iguanas live through out the world even now, but it seemed as though they were some prehistoric beast. If you’ve ever seen and iguana close up I’m sure you’ll agree). Even Boyd commented that he felt as though he should expect a pterodactyl to fly overhead at any moment. The setting, with it’s perfect undisturbed water, the land with it’s complete lack of any manmade structures and the leathery lizards at our feet all contributed to the feeling of being thrust a thousand years into the past.

wpid-wpid-IMG_0885.JPG-2010-03-24-18-50-2010-03-24-18-501.jpgTrue to the promises the iguanas were less “warm and fuzzy” than the pigs, in just about every way. They looked less warm and fuzzy and they surely acted less warm and fuzzy. They were, however happy to take our food scraps and were less fussy than the pigs who, perhaps not surprisingly, wouldn’t eat onions, celery or citrus but loved our leftover cake.

The iguanas would not sit when told to and if you walked towards them or made some gesture that might be interpreted as threatening they stood their ground. The iguanas had a primal type of pecking order and if that order was breached there was heck to pay. More than once when we were doling out the food one of the iguanas stepped out of the preordained hierarchy and attempted to get it’s share before it’s turn. When that happened the dominant iguana would attach the lesser iguana. The dominant iguana would begin chasing the lesser iguana around the beach and when it caught the smaller iguana vigorously bite the back of the offending iguana with such strength and tenacity that I was glad for their leathery skin.

wpid-wpid-IMG_0884.JPG-2010-03-24-18-50-2010-03-24-18-501.jpgThe iguanas were amazing wild creatures who astounded us with their raw nature and sometimes violent ways. They were untouched by the human impact with no signs of any civilization in sight. We entered their world only briefly and passed from each others influence without so much as a scratch. Okay maybe just a small scratch. I did get a bit too close to the stern end of a rather defiant iguana who, decided that I should be taught that on Bitter Guana the lizards are king. He whipped me with his tail before I could hop out of the way. Bugger!

After feeding the iguanas the kids skipped rocks, played on the beach and tried their luck at water skiing. Claudia was a pro and was even able to ski mono, with one ski. Nicole on the other hand, having never done it before drank a fair amount of water. She was a good sport and tried valiantly but never managed to get up on the skis and eventually decided she’d had her sodium intake for the day.

Paul also decided he’d give it a try and while his attempts were more skilled than Nicole’s his results were pretty much the same. Not due to the effort or the lack thereof Paul was unable to get up on the water skis due to the lack of horsepower in the outboard. It was very disappointing for him as he’s always so incredibly agile with any type of new sporting challenge but it was just not to be and eventually he too reached maximum sodium saturation and admitted that there was nothing to be done but get a bigger outboard.

Finally Some Snorkeling and Swimming

Well after a couple of days of westerly winds and a fair bit of bouncing around on the mooring ball the wind finally clocked around to the east and now the chop is significantly less and being on the boat is much more comfortable. In this particular mooring field there is a large expanse of water to the west with no protection so the fetch (as we boater call waves when they are created by the wind across an open area of water) makes sitting here on the mooring rather bumpy. To the east is the island and so the when the wind swings around from that direction the water flattens out and there is relatively little wave action, finally.

This also means that it’s better for snorkeling, easier to swim, easier to see and lots more fun. Still I can’t complain the last couple of days here at the Exuma Land and Sea Park have been great even though we didn’t get in any snorkeling. The girls loved the birds, hermit crabs, and lizard all so tame you could feed them by hand. They also liked the Hotias, which are supposedly nearly extinct although we saw plenty of them on our numerous walks on the island. Additionally the girls had plenty of fun on the beaches, looking at all of the shells and sea creatures and doing hours of cartwheels, handstands and such.

Even Paul enjoyed the hiking and the beaches but let me add here that he didn’t do any cartwheels or handstands or such. There is no fishing or taking of any kind; even empty shells here at the Exuma Land and Sea Park so it is a look only spot. That has stopped Paul’s new fishing experiment for the moment. Too bad, I’ll be ready to have more fish by the time we leave here.

Snorkeling this afternoon was fun we saw a number of beautiful fish on the small reefs here in the park. We chose to do some of the smaller reefs in shallow water for the girls and it was great. Warm water and lots of fish made it ideal for everyone. Nicole and Claudia saw 3 stingrays and we all got to look at a number of crabs, conch, live coral, and an incredible variety of fish. The colors here are amazing, coral can be purple or pink or yellow. The fish have black and blue, purple and yellow, and many other combinations, stripes, spots, stripes the other way, it’s great. I don’t have any photos of the fish or the reef because we don’t currently have an underwater camera but you can look on line and see much of what we are seeing in person. Fantastic!

 

From Eleuthera to the Exumas

Our next port of call after the booming metropolis of Rock Sound Harbor Eleuthera was to be the Exumas Land and Sea Park at Wardwick Wells. This is not so much a town as a preserve. The snorkeling is said to be wonderful and we were looking forward getting a chance to get in the water again, especially now that the water temperature had increased from 65 to 75 degrees.

Okay, I’m thinking here I’m going to get some good natured ribbing but in my defense when you are going to be in the water for an hour or more the difference between 65 degree water and 75 degree water is substantial. If you don’t believe me you come visit and I’ll show you.

On arrival to the island we were disappointed to find that there was a strong westerly wind which made the mooring field quite bouncy. Expecting the wind to settle down and switch we settled in for the night and in the morning went to check in at the office. Due to the fact that the wind had not yet clocked around or reduced Monica and I decided to do home school on the beach near the office. It was a stunning vista and completely comfortable (on land).

In addition to math, reading and writing Nicole was also enamored by the small yellow and black banana birds which you could feed by hand just outside the park office. They have tongues that they flick in and out as they eat almost like humming birds. We fed them in our hands sometimes with as many as 7 per hand. The park provides sugar in a small jar and they flock to it and literally lick the sugar out of your hand and wipe their beaks on the sides of your hand when they get too much crusted along the edge of their beak. The whole thing was just adorable as well as a good nature field trip for school.

Then we fed some other birds (which looked more like the mocking birds we have back home) some of our crackers, they came to visit us the moment we sat down at the picnic table, smart birds. After that we created a hysterical scene with some giant hermit crabs and a bit of the same crackers. These hermit crabs are not like the ones we have on the boat these guys are the size of Nicole’s fist. They are so big I’m afraid to pick them up due to the risk of being pinched.

I decided perhaps the hermit crabs (who were hanging around under the bird feeder) would be interested in some of the cracker too. I took a corner of one back to the spot I’d seen the hermit crabs and dropped it in front of one of the larger hermit crabs who appeared to be combing through the sand for crumbs of sugar dropped by the birds. For a moment I thought the crab wasn’t going to be interested. Suddenly I saw him wheel and head off to the underside of the building.

As though in slow motion replay of a football move the larger hermit crab (I’ll call him #1) tucked the entire piece of cracker under his shell and headed away from the other crabs. The nearest crab wasn’t fooled, somehow he knew about the goody and started following #1. #1 turned and with his other claw he pushed the smaller crab, a big shove, which the smaller crab tried to block. The smaller crab was no match for #1’s strength and it rolled the smaller crab right over on his back. By that time the other crabs were on to #1 and started to bum rush him (all in slow motion mind you). It was quite interesting to watch.

Later Paul got a chance to reproduce the drama with another piece of cracker and then even later we fed a large rather bold lizard a piece of cracker that had apple (kind of like the peanut butter crackers) jam in it. He had the kids in stitches as he tried to fit the entire piece into his mouth at one time. Once he finally managed to swallow the cracker, which took a lot of work, he licked his mouth to get the crumbs and jam off his lips and finally resorted to rubbing his side of his mouth on the rocks to get rid of the excess. We all laughed until it hurt! No snorkeling but what a great time.

 

Re-Inventing the Wheel

In the Bahamas you should be prepared to do it yourself or go without. We have it good because regularly at home we try to solve our problems without buying something new or taking it for repairs. Boyd, in particular, hates to pay someone else for something he can do himself. He finds that many of the repair people you can get to come out to the house are not familiar with the type of product you expect them to service even if you called ahead to tell them the exact make and model of whatever you are calling about.

When our furnace died in the middle of the night on a Sunday night some winters ago he calmly got up went to the basement, popped off the front of the furnace and filed down the prongs (I think the are called igniters) then screwing the front back on the furnace he hit the restart button and the 15 year old furnace fired up as though it were new. Last year before we left the house the refrigerator, which was only 7 years old, started getting a thick coating of frost on the inside of the “frost free” freezer side.

No matter what I did it didn’t seem to matter. I adjusted the temperature, kept the freezer relatively free of unnecessary items and still it frosted over every 7-10 days. Once frosty it was impossible to keep anything appropriately cold in the freezer and I lost several partial gallons of ice cream to the problem. Left to my own devices I would have had to call a repairman or even worse purchase a new refrigerator. Boyd fixed it.

I think here in the Bahamas all of the experience working on our home, our rental units, and even more so our boat before we came has put us in a good position to be self reliant and it’s a good thing too!

The following is a true story and none of the names have been changed to protect the innocent. Paul has been somewhat resistant to fishing (well truth is he loves the fishing part and he even loves the eating the fish part, he can’t stand the part in between). Up until the last 3 days he has been something more than hesitant to go fishing knowing that if we catch it here I’m not playing, I’m cooking it! At home he just catches and releases in the Royal River.

Three days ago our friends on Taua put out a line and amazingly Peter caught an enormous Mahi (or dolphin fish). We weren’t able to weigh it but it was 49 inches long and when I lifted the carcass with the majority of the meat already removed it felt like about 30 lbs still.

We have eaten that as Taua shared generously for the last 3 nights. We had it sautéed in garlic, marinated in teriyaki and tonight I battered and fried some as well. It has been absolutely delicious and, I think, finally Paul is ready to fish.

Just a couple of problems were left to overcome. The first one was that we didn’t have the correct lures, so we bought some. The second one was that we didn’t have the correct line, so we bought some of that. The last one was getting the line that was on Paul’s reel off Paul’s reel and getting the new heavier line onto the reel. I think that this picture should explain it all.

Here Paul holds the line as Boyd winds it off the reel with an ingenious invention involving two paper plates, an empty coke can, a pencil, and the battery operated drill. Nicole helps by holding the pencil. See if you can figure out how we did this.